Friday, March 8, 2013

Thursday, March 7, 2013

We awoke to sunshine this morning. What a beautiful day in Barcelona!

Yesterday we scheduled a tour with a tour bus to go to the Montserrat Monastery at 3pm today.  Our morning plan was to visit Gaudi's La Pedrera sometime before the tour, so we got up a bit later and dawdled over breakfast. I think it will be good for me not to have a buffet breakfast every morning. I love the coffee and end up wired for an hour afterwards. Maybe if I stopped at one cup...?

We walked to La Pedrera. La Pedrera is a unique building to say the least. The tour buses pointed it out each time we went by and commented on the wavy front with wrought iron that looks like "seaweed." We were warned that there would be lines of people and that we would have to wait to get inside. Throughout our trip this has not been true. I think we arrived in Barcelona at just the right time; the end of the low season and the beginning of the high season.

At any rate, we stood behind five or six people, bought our tickets and went directly to the elevator that took us to the roof. The roof is really amazing. Gaudi has done some interesting things with chimneys, ventilation shafts and stairwells. Here is a link that shows some pictures and explains the structures on the roof: http://www.lapedrera.com/en/la-pedrera-day#_282 There is a wonderful view of Barcelona in all directions and since the day was sunny and warm, it was stunning!

We went down one level to the attic which now contains an interpretive center for Gaudi's works. There was a lot to take in and I am sure that I missed out on tons of information. Gaudi even designed some of the first ergonomic furniture and we saw  beautiful wood examples on display there. The obvious structural element  in the attic was how it was formed from arches and I found this quote about it. "The attic used to house the water tanks and washing lines were formed by two hundred and seventy catenary arches of different heights which hold up the roof. So we walked through lots of brick arches as we explored the interpretive center.

From there we went to the 4th floor where an apartment was set up with period furniture. Since the house was built around courtyards, the apartment went all the way around too. It was very light and airy inside and shows Gaudi's attention to every detail of everyday life. Some people still live in apartments in this building.

After La Pedrera we had time for a little lunch and for collecting the things we thought we would need to visit a mountain late in the afternoon. Montserrat was something both Lola and I wanted to see, but we weren't sure how we should get there. On the one hand, we had detailed instructions for taking public transportation to the monastery, but on the other hand, we like hearing what a guide has to say so the convenience of riding a tour bus won out.

One of the elements of the monastery is a boys' school for 50 boys who are in a choir. As we rode out of Barcelona, someone asked if we would get to hear the boys' choir sing. Our guide told us that their tour purposely left at 3pm in the afternoon to miss the huge crowds of people that go there especially to hear the boys sing. The monastery has about 80 monks and a school for the 50 member boys' choir. The boys' choir dates back to the 14th century and our guide gave us an overview of how the boys are selected. One of the monks recruits boys from Catalonia who can play the piano (since about age 4) and sing. If they are chosen, they visit the school for short times to see if they can adapt because it is a boarding school where the boys live during the week. They have very rigorous musical training for five years--from nine until fifteen when their voices change, they are out. I wonder if anyone has followed up on the boys later in their lives to see what they end up doing with their lives after all the intensive musical training. Since I did not see them in person, I watched them on YouTube!

We wound our way up the mountain and in many places you could see (we ended up about 4000 high) the small towns (far) below. Since we knew that we could have come by public transit, so we kept looking for the train, but it was not until we got to the top that we looked down that we could see where the cable car and the rack train came up the side. We had been advised to take the rack train instead of the cable car and if I ever do go up to the monastery again, I would definitely take the train rather than the cable car. I am still quivering from the sight of it coming up the side of the mountain! Transportation-wise, there are also two funiculars, one that goes a short ways and one that goes to the top of a mountain. Our guide said there wasn't anything up there; "just the other side of the mountain and then you have to walk down." You will see my pictures of this later! (not from the top either)

The history of the monastery was interesting and it is a very peaceful place. The monks were there in 1025 and legend has it that the Black Virgin statue was discovered by children in medieval times. Our guide described the statue for us beforehand as Mary with Jesus sitting on her lap, but it is not a maternal representation. Jesus wears a crown and Mary holds a sphere in her hand. (our guide also said that the sphere is a symbol of perfection--in Barcelona when something goes well, they say something to the effect that it went round--maybe some of our Barcelona experts can tell me if that is true!)

The monastery was been rebuilt after Napoleon destroyed it . The basilica has also been rebuilt. We spent the most time in the basilica and we were able to climb right up to where the Black Virgin sits above the main altar. (up and down 50 steps so Lola saved her knees and just looked inside). When we came down the other side, there were rows and rows of votive candles. Of course, I made a donation and lit one. We need all the light we can get in this world!

As you might expect, we heard some people speaking English and met a couple from Vermont and another from California.

I am sure a lot of people go up to Montserrat for the view, to see the choir, the basilica, and the monastery, but it really is a very peaceful (dare I say holy?) sort of place and I  liked that. It would be great to do a retreat there in the off season. (bucket list?)

I would have liked to walk around the grounds more, but our tour was short, so we were soon back on the bus and headed to Barcelona. We arrived after 7pm and saw the heaviest traffic we had seen so far.

Back at the hotel, we sorted through our belongings and managed to get everything stuffed back into the same luggage we arrived with last week. We had our plan for how to get Lola back to the airport (exp:ress Aerobus) and set the alarm for 6:30 am. Lola soon fell asleep, but I was waiting until the time I could Skype with my granddaughters--the youngest had her 5th birthday today. It was after 10pm for me when they got home from school. We chatted face to face several minutes over a connection that was surprisingly better than I expected. It was great to see their faces and to chat with my daughter-in-law, Lisa, too.

And that was how we spent Lola's last day in Barcelona.

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

We awoke to rain again today--no drought in Barcelona! We figured it would stop later on just like it did yesterday, so we waited a while until it eased up. We planned to visit two of Gaudi's houses-La Pedrera and Casa Batllo.

When we arrived, we found that they had closed the roof of  La Pedrera because of the rain. Since we really wanted to go on the roof,  we decided to do a walking tour instead. As soon as we got started, it began to rain again. We kept walking because we thought we would take cover in a church along the walk or in some other building along the way. Instead of letting up, it began to rain harder so we gave up and started back to the hotel. We passed a McDonald's and stopped in for a cup of hot tea. We warmed up but the rain kept on so we went back to the hotel and booked a trip to the monastery, Montserrat, for tomorrow. It is Lola's last chance to see the Monastery and it sounds like the weather there will be ok.

We dried out at the hotel and  went to a very nearby restaurant that pretty much only sells Iberian ham sandwiches. Lola and I really like how sandwiches here are spread with olive oil and tomato. It sure beats mayo and I think I will bring that idea back home! So, there we were in the ham sandwich shop, surrounded by hams hanging on the walls, drinking beer, eating ham sandwiches and watching a video of how the hams are produced. I guess you shouldn't think too much while you do this.

After we ate, we returned to our room to do some odds and ends of email and a little reading and catching up on the news on TV. I think I might have heard a snore (could it have come from me?) while I was lying on the bed reading a novel from my ipod. Before we knew it, the sun the was out so we took a walk along La Rambla to see what was going on.

We were determined to have some tapas tonight and thought we would go to our own hotel bar for those. Wrong! The hotel bar did not open until 8pm, but the attendant recommended a tapas bar around the corner from the hotel so that is where we ended up. (we wanted to go to our hotel bar because my son, Mat, had looked at pictures of our hotel and commented that we would need to arrive early for "happy hour' because there were only 3 stools! http://www.hotel-inglaterra.com/images/fotos-galeria/bar.jpg) I really don't believe anyone goes to our hotel restaurant and bar in the evening. It is on the -1 floor and very out of the way.

We ended up at the recommended tapas bar where we had tomato bread, spicy potato tapas, potato and meatball tapas in a spicy tomato sauce and grilled vegetables (and beer). We liked it all. I know that people in Spain eat tapas earlier in the evening and then have a bigger meals much later in the evening but Lola and I never make it to that last meal. We just aren't that hungry and we can't stay up that late. ;-)

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

March 5, 2013

We had hoped to go to the monastery, Montserrat, up in the mountains today, but it was pouring down rain when we got up. Maybe tomorrow!

We took our time with breakfast and by then the rain had stopped so we went out to look for some of the places I need to find after Lola leaves on Friday. The layout of some of the streets is still confusing to me, but I am getting it figured out. Google Maps really helps too!

Lola needed a few souvenirs so we hiked all the way down the Rambla to the port. We went into the market on the way and spent too much on some very nice chocolate.  A large statue of Christopher Columbus marks the end of the Rambla so we turned and walked along the waterfront to Barceloneta (little Barcelona on the old port) until we found a place for lunch. We had the menu del dia--I had a plate of fried little fish (pescaditos fritos?) with their little heads and tails still on and paella (at lunch, Elaine!). Lola had a mixed salad, chicken and french fries. For dessert, I had Crema Catalunya and Lola had flan. Delicious! It is now about seven hours later and I am still not hungry.

We walked down to the pier and sat watching the boats, gulls and tourists for a while. We saw a large yacht arrive and ferries coming in and out. A little farther down is where all the cruise ships arrive--we saw the Norwegian Spirit (which I will sail on late in April) there on Sunday.

Since we walked down the hill to get to the port, we decided that it was time to try the metro to get back to Placa Catalunya where our hotel is located. We entered the metro just across the street from the statue of Columbus and rode two short stops (without incident) to get back to the hotel. We were tuckered out after that. I finished a book and Lola has been watching the news (the only thing on TV in English). So that is it for today. Cross your fingers for Montserrat tomorrow-Lola is running out of days!

Day 6 March 4, 2013

Monday
Today, we got up before 8 am because we wanted to visit Gaudi's Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell and we were forewarned that both would be crowded. We decided to use our second day of the tourist bus for transportation. We arrived at Sagrada Familia, shortly before 10 am and the line was already around the corner but it moved fast and we were inside by 10:20. We wandered around inside (in awe--you really have to see this to appreciate the architecture of this huge church) before taking the elevator up 215 feet in the Passion Facade elevator. Then you could look out some small windows to overlook the city. Lola decided to take the elevator back down and i opted for the stairs since others were waiting for the elevator too. There were more than 400 steps back down with a hyper-ventilating English lady just ahead of me. I even stepped out on a balcony part way to take another look at the city and still caught up to her again. I kept telling her it was just like being upstairs and that we were almost down, but she was clinging to the railing and trying to keep her other hand on the inside of the stairs. It was anti-climatic when we finally got down. There was an iron gate in front of us and nowhere else to go, but the gate pushed up and we were back inside the church. Rick Steve's description of the Sagrada Familia is very good and paying what he calls a "steep admission price" makes us partners in the project and should make us feel good. I thought it was impressive and am glad I went, but I would guess that the crowd was relatively light today and that made it a much better visit!

We hopped back on the tourist bus and headed to Parc Guell. I wish I had read Rick Steve's description of it first as it would have been more meaningful to know when we were on the "rosary path" and that the round stones along it represented beads of the rosary. We commented on them, but did not know their significance. It is a beautiful park and what Gaudi intended for it is really impressive for his time. There is a school right in the middle of it and we saw the children outside playing as we left.

Late in the afternoon we took one more round trip on the bus and took in Barcelona at night. Riding the buses we have spent a lot of time in traffic and are amazed at the number of scooter riders amongst the cars. We went by the Sants station, the main transportation hub in Barcelona, and saw an entire parking lot full of them. Another observation is that there are far too many McDonald's in this city!

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Day 5 March 3, 2013

We managed to get ourselves up and going by 9 am today while all of you were still asleep. Our hotel provides a free buffet breakfast so I get to try some things that I have been seeing in Spain but have not yet tried. I had some of the Spanish ham and it was good--sort of prosciutto like. There is also a fancy coffee machine where I can get espresso, cappuccino, and cafe con leche which I really like.  Lola is mixing her coffee with hot water to get more of an American experience.

It was warmer and sunny in Barcelona today. We spent most of the day on the tourist bus getting an idea how the city is laid out. From the bus we saw the World Trade Center, the port where all the cruise lines dock, the Olympic Village, Montjuic with funiculars that come all the way from the port. We saw Las Arenas (a bullfight ring that is now a shopping center), the main sports center, and several of Gaudi's works--Park Guell, La Pedrera, the Sagrada Familia, and Casa Batllo. The guide pointed out the different areas of Barcelona and we saw many distinctive examples of beautiful architecture. These are just a few of the sights we saw today--Lola took many pictures from the bus, but I am waiting for a closer look. All of the tourist buses have wifi so I attempted to post some pictures from my phone. If you are friends with me on Facebook, you will see that I was NOT successful! (but I will keep trying!)

Tomorrow we will visit the Olympic Village, Gaudi's Park Guell and Sagrada Familia church from the bus. We are hoping to get to a monastery in the mountains later this week. The days are flying by quickly and we have a lot left to see!

Day 4 March 2, 2013

The sun came out this morning and after our usual breakfast of "cafe con leche y croissants," we set out to find the train station located near the end of the Rambla.  It was a lovely walk and when we returned to the hotel, we lunched on the rooftop, basking in the sunshine.

Our train ride back to Barcelona was very smooth and scenic; the train goes along the coast. And it took less time than we expected. The train took us to a stop very near the Placa Catalunya (more advice from the librarians) and a short walk to our hotel. Our directions to the hotel were good once we figured out that we were walking in the right direction! At one point, two girls walked up to us and asked where we got our laminated map. They weren't too interested when they found out that I got it before I came here.

Our hotel is located very near the Placa Catalunya which is a very central location (thanks for the tip, Elaine and Joan!) Many types of transportation are located there and lots of tours start there. It also has the beginning of the Rambla (a wide avenue that leads all the way down to the port).

We dropped our luggage off and went out to see Barcelona. We hiked down the Rambla along with a great number of Barcelonians (everyone is out on a Saturday afternoon.) We found the main food market and walked through there--the fruit and juice looked lovely and really tempting, but the crowds got the best of us. There was lots of fish and ham. Large hams hang in many of the eating places--I learned in a Spanish class that the making (and eating) of ham is very important in Barcelona. I am looking forward to trying it! However, we just had some ice cream and retreated to the hotel for some rest.

We went out again later and decided to walk through some side streets to avoid the crowds and find somewhere to eat. We ate at a German restaurant and it was very good. Then we walked some more and got lost. We were very close to our hotel, but its street is like a spoke off a wheel and we got confused. We have had to ask for directions more than once so we have started to look for landmarks as we walk.


Saturday, March 2, 2013

Day 3 Friday March 1, 2013

My first library visit was scheduled for 9 am Friday morning, so I had to make sure I got myself up in time to get a bus to the campus. I got on the bus behind a woman and sat across from her. She looked and me and said Hola and I discovered that she was a librarian and that she would be giving me a tour at the Library. ¡quĂ© casualidad! (Coincidence, right?) She got me off the bus at the right stop and to the right place in the library to meet with the director, Roser Lozano. I did my interview  with three librarians, one seemed to be there for her English speaking expertise. I really appreciated that because my Spanish is not good enough to carry off an interview totally in Spanish.

After the interview, the director rushed off to a meeting and the two librarians graciously showed me their library and explained their services and policies. The library has many windows and is well laid out, tidy, and modern. I believe it was built in the 1990's so it is not very old. I have many pictures to show when I return. I spent about four hours with the two librarians and then met with the director once more before I left. They also presented me with a bottle of champagne made in the Enology Department of the University. Yes, they have a four-year wine-making degree and the bottle had their own label on it! They were extremely gracious and welcoming to me and I really appreciated it.

It was quite a relief to have my first interview over and went back to the hotel to meet Lola for the afternoon. It was raining in the morning but by the time we were able to go out again, it was just cloudy. We took the advice of the librarians and walked down the Rambla (the main street) to the port. They said it was traditional to take a walk there and "toca la herra" which means touch the iron fence at the end of the Rambla. It is supposed to be good luck so we made sure to do it! Then we walked through the old town which had winding streets and many little shops. We stopped in one little bar and drank a beer and later stopped at a bakery for a little pan con chocolate. It doesn't sound like a very  good combination but they were both very good!

I am still not used to the time change, but I am not sleeping during the day, so I am sure I will get straightened out soon. Lola seems to have adjusted well already.